I'm sorry mom; I'm becoming a surfer

Current location: Hitting the waves in Jacó, 9°36’50’’ N, 84°37’48’’ W

I didn’t know stingrays could jump. Nor did I know how at peace I could be with my life whilst bobbing on a surfboard for most of the day. Everything seems meaningful and purposeless at the same time, the only thing that exists is right now and the glittering waves. Suddenly it happens, finally weeks of hard work pays off, and I catch wave after wave making it look easier that it is. No longer am I getting frustrated with the repeated defeat and no longer does every single monstrous wave that tries to discourage me bash me up, I conquer the waves, and they are my friends. No longer do I feel frustrated that the University in Costa Rica screwed me over with false pretenses about my project, the reason why I’m surfing instead of doing work to begin with. I am truly happy. And I wouldn’t mind doing this for the rest of my life. I’m sorry mom; I am becoming more of a surfer than I ever was a hockey player. I love it.

#beach #surfing #lovinglife #eckardtadventures #costarica